First things first: the climbing area at the Schleierwasserfall waterfall is not designed for beginners. The most interesting routes are all rated at least 8 on the Austrian climbing scale, meaning that this beautiful location really is for experts only. It takes around half an hour to walk from the car park to what is one of Tirol's largest and most picturesque climbing areas, at the foot of the Wilder Kaiser Mountains. The south-facing "Schleier" rockface with its 201 routes can be climbed throughout the year and offers perfect limestone with majestic views of the Kitzbühel Alps. "Number One direkt" is a cool line that is just as good to climb as it looks. The route is consistent from bottom to top, though there are few places to rest and recover.
"The route is logical and has a unique combination of smooth sections and small fingerholds."
Kilian Fischhuber, former pro climber & European boulder champion
Topography
Climbing area
Difficulty ratings
Number of routes
Difficulty rating 5
2
Difficulty rating 6
36
Difficulty rating 7
76
Difficulty rating 8
83
Difficulty rating 9
4
Total number of routes 201
Type of rock
Limestone
Orientation
South
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
* These are approximate values and recommendations. Please take your personal fitness level, technical ability and the current weather conditions into account. Tirol Werbung cannot guarantee that the information provided is correct and accepts no liability.
Climbing route "Number One direkt"
Route length
30m
Difficulty rating (French)
7b(+)
Route number in topo
36
Route established by
Harasser, Kernmaier (1988)
Parking
At the Hotel Stanglwirt in Going, take the road towards Prama. At the first fork in the road turn right (follow the signs for the "Badesee" swimming lake) and follow the road all the way to the edge of the forest. At one of the right-hand corners there is a dirt road turning off to the left, where climbers can park.
Approach
Follow the forest road along the stream. Turn right over a bridge and at the next fork in the road take the middle path through the gate. At a left-hand turn, take the small path leading off to the right and uphill (follow the signs for "Schleierwasserfall") until you rejoin the forest road. Continue to follow this gently uphill. Continue to follow the road until you reach a small trail with a signpost where you should turn left to the waterfall. Total walking time: approx 40 minutes.
Downloads
Trail description
The limestone on "Number One direkt“ offers some of the best climbing in Tirol. The route is located in a section known as "Graue Wand". It is very challenging right from the start and has two sections at the bottom with long moves requiring maximum strength anf (especially for smaller climbers) good foot placement. At the end of the route, when your arms are already screaming for mercy, there is a final tough pitch with small handholds.
