Via ferrata Via Ferrata Ochsenwand

Telfes im Stubaital
Difficulty ratings: C/D
Duration: 1:30 h
Altitude: 700 hm

A particularly interesting, long and beautiful via ferrata that is certainly one of the most important via ferrata routes in Austria. For all the pleasure of the beautiful ascent, it is important to save some strength for the strenuous descent.

Information

  • Requirement: C/D
  • Duration: 3:00 h
  • Duration: 1:30 h
  • Elevation difference: 700 hm

Approach

Take the cable car up to the Kreuzjoch, from there down (on forest road or piste) to the Zirmachalm and continue on the gravel path until a well-trodden trail branches off to the left (large sign) to the access point (small sign). Without the cable car, an additional effort of about 1.5 hours is to be expected.

Descent

From the summit, follow the markings over the north ridge, which is fully secured in the steep section and should not be underestimated (wear via ferrata equipment and helmet at the summit). Time: 1.5 hours to the Alpenklubscharte. From there follow the marked path to the Schlicker Alm and on to the Froneben station (or further into the valley).

Walking time descent

3:00 h

Best time of year

  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • September
  • October
  • November
  • December

Route description

Very interesting, long and beautiful via ferrata, one of the most famous ones in Austria.

Difficulty: C to D, some climbing passages 1
Times / height differences:
Approach: 1 - 1.5 h / 650 hm
Via ferrata: 3 h / 700 hm
Descent: 3 - 3.5 hrs / up to 1350 hm
Starting point: Kreuzjoch mountain station of the Schlick 2000, 2136 m; Schlickeralm, 1645 m
 
Characteristic:
The route has been constructed along the south ridge of Große Ochsenwand, therefore danger of rock fall exists only in the lower part of the ascent. The lightly overhanging rock face at the entry and the following dihedrals are the most difficult passages. If someone is over challenged at these passages better turn back, because the difference of high altitude of approx. 700 m (thereof 500 m secured) demands condition and well-experienced mountaineers. Also the descent on the regular path - very interesting as independent via ferrata excursion – has several secured passages. Throughout well secured, some passages need lots of energy, red signposted. Unsuitable for children and unexperienced!
 
Difficulty:
Very difficult. In the lower part on 400 Hm throughout B to C, some passages at the entry C/D or D, at the upper part part mostly walking area with short, secured passages (A/B to C/D) and some easy climbing passages to 1+
 
Danger:
In the lower part danger of rock fall; the descent is also classified as via ferrate and after snowfall partly difficult.
 
Equipment: via ferrata set, helmet, good mountain boots or climbing shoes; security rope for youths;
 
Base: Schlicker Alm, 1640 m, private, Restaurant, open from mid-May – end-oct.; Tel. +43(0)5225-62409 (Taxi service to Schlickeralm, Tel. +43 (0)5225/62409)
 
Tip: The ascent over the secured north ridge via ferrata (B and C) to the Große Ochsenwand is also worth to climb as an independent 1-day excursion

Getting here

  • Arrival by public transport

    From the train station Innsbruck are regularly running busses to Fulpmes.

  • Parking

    Parking Schlick 2000 cableways

  • Contact

    Klettersteig Große Ochsenwand

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