The areas around Innsbruck and on the edges of the Karwendel Mountains offers plenty of good climbing for families, beginners and climbers who are more into enjoyment than extreme challenges. There are lots of pitches here graded 3, 4 and 5 (easy to intermediate) according to the system used here in Austria to rate the difficulty of climbing routes. The climbing garden in Mötz is particularly popular with younger and less experienced climbers, with many routes graded 3 (easy). The Sonnenplatten climbing area near Seefeld offers a broader range of difficulty levels. This climbing area has been recently renovated in collaboration with local climbing legend Heinz Zak, meaning all routes now meet the latest safety standards. Sunny Joe (7a+) in the Chill Area sector is a tough route 18 metres in length. If you're looking for something even more challenging, you'll find it on the Chinese Wall in Leutasch. Thanks to their south-facing orientation, the routes there are dry and easy to grip even on sunny winter days. Strong climbers will also enjoy the challenge of the 40 Metre Wall, where the name tells you everything you need to know.
Often too hot in summer due to its exposed location, autumn is exactly the right time of year for (multi-pitch) climbing at the Steinplatte. Water has moulded the grippy limestone over thousands of years and given it a structure that gives the mostly challenging climbing here a very special charm. Hundreds of millions of years ago, during the Mesozoic Era, the Steinplatte was part of a vast coral sea. Today it is the only dry reef in Europe, offering wonderful intermediate and advanced climbing. With pitches of up to 50 metres and numerous routes graded 8 and 9 (difficulty to very difficult), experienced climbers in particular are spoilt for choice. From seriously challenging pitches like the Sleepwalker (8a, 25 metres) to long but less tough ones like Lehrbuameck (6a, 50 metres), the Steinplatte has plenty to warm you up even on the coldest of autumn days.
The craggy peaks of the Wilder Kaiser Mountain are popular amongst not only hikers and mountaineers but also rock climbers. While the north-facing pitches offer shade in summer, they are best avoided in the cooler autumn months. Instead, head to the south-facing Wilderer Kanzel with its technical and challenging climbing. This area is so exposed that it can be climbed even in winter. Strong climbers will find even more tough routes (rated 7 and above, experts only) at the rock-climbing area in Achleiten. Its south-facing walls offer over 170 different pitches.
One of the most beautiful rock climbing routes in Tirol is found in East Tirol. Located in the Paradise sector of the rock climbing garden near the Dolomitenhütte hut, it goes by the name Another Day in Paradise and offers 35 metres of rewarding climbing with some fabulous views. Towards the top of the route the rock becomes increasingly exposed and the views of the Dolomites increasingly stunning. The first section requires strength and agility, while the second section is more a question of endurance and stamina. Like most of the climbing around the Dolomitenhütte hut, this one is also perfect for beautiful autumn days. The high altitude of the route at over 1,600 metres means it stays wet for a long time in spring due to melting snow. The Dolomitenhütte is only suitable for beginners to a limited extent - most of the routes are for intermediate and expert climbers.
The climbing around Kufstein offers something for everyone. While many climbing walls mainly offer routes with similar levels of difficulty, the Moorsbach climbing garden is the perfect place for first attempts at technical climbing - and a few metres further on you will climb some of the most difficult routes in the world. It was in 1990 that Gerhard Hörhager first climbed a 10+ route here called Guana, which is still in excellent condition today and can also be climbed by technically experienced climbers in the autumn months. For those travelling with children and new to the sport of rock climbing there are plenty of easier options in Moorsbach too (graded 2 to 3, easy). The south-east facing limestone offers plenty of grip, dries quickly and is therefore easy to climb in autumn and spring (560 metres above sea level). Be careful on some of the very easy routes - the slabs of rock have been climbed so many times that they are quite smooth and slippery. After all, Moorsbach is one of the oldest climbing areas in Tirol and has even used by the Austrian army for training purposes.
Fancy solving some problems? This area is not as high in altitude as those mentioned above, but the Tirolean Oberland (the term given to the western part of Tirol) has many sport climbing routes to offer. It is here that you will find two exciting bouldering areas that also offer perfect conditions in autumn. The big advantage is that the gneiss becomes even grippier in cold temperatures. Perfect conditions to tackle the 144 problems on 30 boulders in the Höll bouldering area. With boulders ranging from 4b to 8a+, beginners and experienced boulderers alike will find the right route here. The recently developed Hochimst area is brand new on the bouldering map. Instead of gneiss, it has limestone. The 33 routes are of a more dignified nature, with many rated 6 (intermediate). The route Straight to Monaco is one of the more challenging at 8a (difficult). In addition to the bouldering fun, there is also a special vibe here - hop on the cable car with a crash pad, hike up between the cows and, once you have finished climbing, go scavenging for mushrooms for dinner - a perfect autumn day!
There are plenty of places in Tirol where you can still go climbing even as temperatures start to cool off in autumn. The most important thing is that the rock is south-facing. It is also a good idea to stay down in the valley where temperatures are generally warmer than farther up.
As well as the exposure of the rock, it is worth bearing in mind that after rainfall it will take longer for the rock to dry and the sun will not reach all nooks and crannies. This means that deep crevices in the rock may stay wet for longer than in summer. This also applies to the ground, where grass and forest floor will also stay wet for longer after a period of rainfall. However, this is no problem as long as you have all the necessary equipment with you for walking to the rock and standing at the bottom when belaying the person climbing.
When it comes to winter climbing, the criteria are similar to those for autumn climbing. It is worth bearing in mind that in winter the sun sits even lower in the sky, so it is essential that you choose a south-facing wall and leave a few days for itto dry after a period of rainfall.
In addition to the usual climbing equipment, cooler temperatures must be expected in autumn, depending on the foot of the wall and the location, even if it is still really warm on the rock. Warm clothing for belaying and sturdy footwear for wooded and sometimes muddy approaches should always be included in autumn.
Good question! The ten most beautiful climbing routes in Tyrol - as recommended by various Tyrolean climbing pros - can be found here.
